It’s hot like a furnace with faint cool sea breeze teasing you; no source of entertainment in the sense no cinema halls, restaurants or any touristy things to do. Just small hotels and lodges to crash for a night or two and fire temples. To a city bum it’s probably their worst night mare, to me it’s beautiful.
Where you see dead – I see calm. Where you see simple old albeit boring hotels, I see charming cottages with character. Where you see just fire temples and houses of religion, I see history and a place of peace. The best word to sum up this sleepy town which looks like it’s trapped in the 1800’s is quaint. Udwada is a quaint town which on the outside probably has nothing to offer but for a spiritual person like myself, the two days I’ve spent there I will treasure in a way I didn’t even realise was possible.
I spent two days in this holy town and it was spent doing three things. Praying, meeting the local priests and their families who lived there and EATING! Which to any Parsi Zorastrian is an integral part of the religious experience. The people of Udwada are humble and so adorable they remind me of Parsi’s from another world. A world so far away from what I’m exposed to in the city and it was just wonderful to interact with them. My tales about the locals is best kept for another post but apart from that a LOT of time was spent eating. Our breakfast was a typical Parsi meal though I have to be honest I was expecting chunks of chicken or pork along with toast and jam. Sounds ridiculous I know but the more unusual it sounds the more likely some Parsi on the planet somewhere has eaten it!
Spicy akuri, lovely light fluffy ‘charvela eeda’ which is scrambled eggs and safe to say some of the best eggs I’ve eaten. Fried egg , mildly toasted bread, butter and the sweetest jam ( probably one of those mala or wit jams). Of course there MUST be some meat to kick start the day so the first day was this beautiful spicy as hell kheema with potatoes. The kheema was my favourite so when we were served kaleji ( liver) the next day I just couldn’t help miss that yummy kheema.
Spicy akuri, lovely light fluffy ‘charvela eeda’ which is scrambled eggs and safe to say some of the best eggs I’ve eaten. Fried egg , mildly toasted bread, butter and the sweetest jam ( probably one of those mala or wit jams). Of course there MUST be some meat to kick start the day so the first day was this beautiful spicy as hell kheema with potatoes. The kheema was my favourite so when we were served kaleji ( liver) the next day I just couldn’t help miss that yummy kheema.
Another thing distinctly found in Udwada is the local Gujarati girls will come to your hotel, shout under your building if you want to buy any local treats and fix up a time to come the next day and show you what she has in stock. I brought home packets of saaria ( white puffy crispy wafer like treat that is served at most weddings ) baby papads, plain and garlic flavoured which you’re suppose to fry but I baked them instead and they turned out yummy. We also bought fresh peppermint just because she had some. It’s easy to get the papad and the saaria from a store in Bombay but the fun was in buying something different NOT from a store but from a sweet lady who probably made them at home and sold it in her basket on her head. She’s the same lady who brought us the doodh na puff.
A common dish at almost every lunch in this town is their famous ” Boi ni Macchi”. It’s a local river fish which is fried and everyone swears by it. Crispy on the outside but soft and delicious on the inside this fried fish is a hot favourite to eat plain, with chapati’s or even with dal and rice.
My lunch on the second day was not at Globe Hotel, where I was staying and had all my meals but at a dharamsala. The food was lovely with of course the usual suspects like salli chicken and the boi ni macchi but there was also a mutton pulao daal. Now it’s a normal Parsi dish, not even something local or known only to Udwada but then I had to give it a special mention because in all probability it was the best Pulao daal ka daal I have ever eaten. Usually the daal is thick and sometimes so thick that it’s plonked on top of the rice almost like a blob and I dislike that. This daal was much thinner (perfect daal like consistency if you ask me) and wonderfully balanced. Not too spicy, not plain and boring but just the perfect gravy to pour on top of soft fragrant rice with tender pieces of mutton. Sodawaterwalla Dharamsala you have outdone our self which just that daal.
A couple of shots from my meals –
You made my hunry at 3 a.m. tiny… You better ping me on ur next trip… Parsi grub is next on mah list…
very true for us (zoroastrain)heaven on earth.
🙂
man when i saw the dishes my mouth starts watering in real sense man we parsis rock
Haha yes we do 🙂 Thanks 🙂
Gravies and cutlets
Quaint lil’ outlets
A pilgrim’s dream
Udvada’s the mean
Where Ahura Mazda sublets!
🙂 🙂
you bet TINY TASTER ive had every thing you’ve mentioned and it tastes as good as it looks in your ( Sohrab’s) pics @ UDWADA. GBU U 3, ROXANNE, SOHRAB AND FREYAN for this mighty effort….my hunger pangs always manage to get a whiff of what u blog, write, eat ATTAGIRL..the reluctant writer.
Oh wow, Thank you so much :):) The three of us really did have a great time, I’m glad you enjoyed reading all the Udvada articles 🙂 Thank you sooo much !! 🙂
you’re welcome Roxanne……..i even wrote one !!!……….the reluctant writer.
Loved the snaps. Any idea if there is a place in Bombay to get the Doodh Ka Puff?
Maybe if you could ask Ratan Tata Institute there are 2 of them one in Andeheri and the other one on Peddar Road. But in Gujrat you can get it anywhere. Goodluck Bro.
Tiny master,
the parsi dishes you have shown are what I ate at the Parsi Hotel in Udwada. I forget the name of the hotel but its at the end of the raod shown. The hotel has a nice roadside appeal. The food in the parsi dharamsala is a whole lot better. That hotel food is nasty, the rooms are full of bed bugs and no hot water either but they charge you 1500 rupees for a night per person for evening dinner and morn breakfast. Horrible food. Bad experience we had. But i
tiny master, awesomely written blog..the pics tell a story which is slurpppp….Is there any way i can be treated to this lovely tasting session…I would be obliged
Great interesting Blog. The pics sure give justice to the food. Makes you want to go and taste the stuff all the way to Gujrat!
A very true and perfect write up. Do you know the jam and butter also tastes so different and good when we eat it with toast, though they must be of the same “malas or wits” bottle. Love to spend a day or two in Udvada atleast once a year.
This is definitely 1 of my fav destinations…. I guess spiritualism is my excuse and the food at Globe Hotel my main reason for travel to Udvada.
The small balcony on which the food table is laid is unmistakably Globe Hotel right next to the Pandol FireTemple.
The lady selling home made papads I recognised. She takes orders and delivers them to the hotel room same evening or the following day….
tiny taster….. u just made me think of a tentative plan to visit Udvada yet again.
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Wonderful to see all the good food. Brings back Udvada memories and I pray that parsis live on in India and abroad.
Wonderfully penned.
Any idea, how to get there from Mumbai?
You can drive to Udawada or catch a train. I
m not sure which ones exactly you will have to check at the station. Hope it helps 🙂